Less than 100 kilometres away from Brussels, in the Antwerp Province near the Dutch border, lies an ample nature reserve, with fens, dunes and pine forests spreading far and wide.
The Belgian part – Grenspark Kalmthoutse Heide, and De Zoom park — and the Dutch part of the reserve together span 37.5km2, and feature dry pine, damp moss, and, if you time a visit in August, the honeyed perfume of blooming heather.
Credit: The Brussels Times/Eva Hilinski
I went to the heath on Sunday, which was a particularly hot day, amplifying the scent of dry pine, damp moss and heather.
As I live in Antwerp, I initially planned to cycle. The 25-kilometre route seemed easy enough with an electric bicycle. However, as temperatures climbed to 30°C, I decided to take a 30-minute train to Kalmthout Station, which was a much better alternative.
Hours of hiking
The walk from the train station was a three-kilometre warm-up through quiet residential streets, and then a long forest road before approaching Plusiven fen, near the Stappersven — the largest pond in the park. It was calm and quiet, with few other hikers and cyclists.
I avoided stepping off the footpath as snakes inhabit the heath, and I wasn't wearing boots. But even without boots, I could wander through the heather and bush grass and found odd-looking branches in the middle of a field.
Plusiven fen at Kalmthout Heath. Credit: The Brussels Times/Eva Hilinski
The path from Stappersven down to Putse Moer (another water reserve closer to Heide) is well-trodden through sand sprays and heather, which blooms pink and purple in August and September. If not for the blazing sun, the hike was rather effortless.
Before entering a pine forest, there's a 42-metre-high fire lookout, with spacious viewing platforms at 12 metres and 24 metres. The lookout was built after a large forest fire blighted 600 hectares of nature in 2011. To prevent it from happening again, there is also a year-round smoking ban in the entire reserve.
The 42-metre-high fire lookout at Kalmthout Heath. Credit: The Brussels Times/Eva Hilinski
I didn't spot any snakes in the end, but I did see several tree larks and a robin, and heard cuckoos in the forest and frogs near the fen. If you're lucky, you can also spot hares, rabbits, red squirrels, weasels, and even deer and foxes, which inhabit the park.
The last part of the route runs alongside pines towards Heide, with wooden benches lining the way.
Practical information
Coming from Brussels, board any InterCity (IC) train heading toward Antwerp Central (approximately 45 minutes). Then, transfer to the S32 line either to Heide Station or Kamthout Station, which takes approximately 25–35 minutes.
The total travel time is roughly one hour and 20 minutes. From Heide station, it is a pleasant 1.5 km walk (follow the signs) to the main park entrance, De Vroente.
Kalmthout Heath. Credit: The Brussels Times/Eva Hilinski
Alternatively, walk 20 minutes from Kamthout station (as I did). Before the park, Arboretum Kalmthout — a large garden of European plants, a hundred-year-old trees, with a plant shop and a cafe — is a must-visit.
There is also a Beekeeping museum in Kalmthout, open on weekends.
It is also possible to drive here, with parking available both around Heide and Kalmthout.
Find more information on planning a visit here.
