One Dutch chef known for pushing the boundaries of fine dining has once again raised eyebrows by introducing crow as an entrée to his Michelin-starred restaurant's menu.
Herman Cooijmans, the 33-year-old Dutch culinary virtuoso is generally not satisfied with the conventional cooking standards. In the past, his menu has featured avant-garde ingredients such as jellyfish, beef heart, and tulip bulbs. Now, Cooijmans is taking the culinary world by storm by introducing the bird often related to death, the crow, to his menu.
While some might baulk at the idea of dining on crows and even call it appalling, the man behind the celebrated restaurant Eden in the Dutch town of Valkenswaard is quick to clarify that he "isn't sending hunters out to shoot these birds".
Europe has strict protections in place for them, so instead, he makes use of crows that have been legally controlled in response to nuisance or threats. These culled crows from the Valkenswaard and Eersel areas are finding their way onto Cooijmans' plates, rather than going to waste.
'Zero waste'
The chef's innovative approach to cuisine is not only about pushing the culinary envelope but also about being eco-conscious. It's a notion that aligns with the "zero waste" movement and an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients.
Cooijmans, in an interview with Het Belang van Limburg, emphasised his commitment to sustainability in this latest move, stating that the philosophy is about reducing waste and supporting local sourcing. "Choosing crow as an ingredient saves me from using other animals like cows or pigs that would otherwise end up in the slaughterhouse."
However, the decision is not only good for the planet but also for the taste of dishes, as according to Cooijmans, the crow's taste is surprisingly palatable. Its flavour is often likened to that of wild wood pigeon, with a tender and firm texture that lacks the overly gamey taste that deters some from trying unconventional meats.
Cooijmans is the first to acknowledge that the "crow hype" may be somewhat exaggerated, as in the past month and a half, he has only used around 30 of the birds. "I do this out of respect for animals and the environment, not as a mass operation. I could just as easily use pigeons at a lower cost."
Prohibited in Belgium
Crow consumption remains strictly prohibited in Belgium, despite the bird's legal control in certain cases.
Niels Luyten of Vogelbescherming Vlaanderen, an organisation dedicated to bird protection, told Het Belang van Limburg that trading crow meat remains against the law. Restaurants in the country are therefore unable to serve crow as a delicacy.
Luyten also questions the extent of damage caused by crows, arguing that it pales in comparison to the ecological damage wrought by other factors like climate change.
He suggested in the article that the focus should shift towards other birds, such as winter geese, as culprits in environmental damage.
