The more I travel, the more I realise that journeys are not just about discovering new places. They’re about revisiting, reappraising and rediscovering old ones. Time and time again. Until they become almost mythical.
These don’t have to be the world’s most beautiful places, and certainly not the most visited. But they do have to be imbued with memory and meaning. And so awe-inspiring that they take your breath away. Every time.
Hiking to the Worm’s Head on the Gower peninsula in my native Wales. Watching the sun go down on the Missouri River near Columbia. Eating tapas in San Sebastian’s old town. These are some of the places I keep returning to and experiences I never get tired of.
But where to find such places in a country without mighty mountains, roaring rivers or palm-fringed beaches? Here are my magnificent seven in Belgium:
Tombeau du Géant
If you’re looking for one of the most jaw-dropping views in Belgium, walk over the bridge below the 1,000-year-old castle in Bouillon, follow the meandering Semois river past an abbey and former water mill and climb the steep valley as it makes a u-shaped bend.
The view over the snaking river, pine forests and lush green meadows below is breathtaking, whatever the weather. If you’re feeling more adventurous, kayak 20km down the Semois from Bouilloin to Poupehan. You’ll never say Belgium is boring again.
Les Brigittines
It’s Friday lunchtime and this art nouveau brasserie on the edge of the Marolles district in central Brussels is packed with regulars tucking into twists on Belgian classics, like veal cheeks braised in Kriek and terrine of pig’s nose and whelks. Suddenly, one of the waiters puts Jacques Brel on the record player and struts out with a one-candle cake as corks pop, napkins are waved in the air and happy birthday is belted out in French and Dutch.
It’s the sort of scene you can witness in other legendary brasseries like Bistro Nord in Antwerp or Kombuis in Ostend. And it’s another reason why old-school Belgian bistros need to be treasured, protected and frequented.
Zwin
Blighted by ugly apartment blocks and industrial ports, it’s hard to feel at one with nature on the Belgian coast. But lying under the dunes in Zwin, a nature reserve outside Knokke on the Dutch border, you begin to appreciate the soft, simple pleasures of the seaside in this unspoilt corner of Flanders. And when you’re done hiking round the estuary or watching storks nesting, head to Surfer’s Paradise for a cool beer on the hot sand.
The natural reserve "het Zwin" in Knokke. Credit: Belga.
Forêt de Soignes
I’m not a religious person, but staring up at the crowns of the ancient beech trees and watching shafts of sunlight flicker through this forest on the southern edge of Brussels is as close to spiritual as it gets for me. In April, parts of the forest are carpeted in bluebells and if you’re lucky enough, as I was recently, you can catch deer jumping through them.
Thermae Palace
If you’re fed up with Brussels, hop on the train to Ostend, check in at the opulent but affordable Thermae Palace hotel, sit on the balcony admiring the uninterrupted view of sand and sea, head downstairs to the Brasserie Albert, order the shrimp croquettes and grilled sole with fries, and stroll along the promenade breathing in the salty air so loved by Stefan Zweig and Marvin Gaye. You’ll feel a whole lot better for it.
The beach at sunset in Ostend. Credit: Nicolas Maeterlinck, Belga.
Parvis St Gilles
The first thing I did when Covid restrictions were lifted was head to Parvis St Gilles for a beer and frites with friends. Why? Because whether you come for atmospheric bars like Brasserie Verschueren, Maison du Peuple or Brasserie de l’Union, for the art nouveau architecture in the streets surrounding the square or for the Thursday night food trucks in summer – try the Jamaican jerk chicken washed down with Piña Colada – Parvis St Gilles is effortlessly-cool city-living at its finest. And there’s not a tourist in sight.
Antwerp Centraal
Staring up at the vast dome in the entrance hall of Antwerp’s central station, it’s easy to understand why this 120-year old building is nicknamed the spoorwegkathedraal (railroad cathedral).
In fact, the station is so stunning it makes some cathedrals, like Brussels’ St Gudula, look plain in comparison. Added bonus: It’s only a couple of minutes walk to Belgium’s best zoo, buzziest shopping streets and most vibrant Jewish quarter.
Entrance of the railway station Antwerp Central. Credit: Belga.
Grand Place
I know it’s crammed with tourists, surrounded by souvenir shops and hardly original to heap praise on, but I challenge you to stand in the middle of Europe’s most beautiful square and not be bowled over – even if it’s your 100th visit. The best place to take in the hustle and bustle is from the newly opened spire of the city’s town hall. Or peering out from the mezzanine of the Roi d’Espagne bar with an Orval in hand.
