Textile recycling operators are urging the Walloon and Brussels governments to take urgent action to support their ailing sector, which has faced added pressure since January under a new European directive that requires the collection of all textile waste, regardless of quality.
As a result, a 10% increase in collected tonnage has been reported in Wallonia, with no additional financial resources. Operators are requesting €206 per tonne for processing, pending the structural aid promised for 2028.
The sector was already struggling before January due to fast fashion, which has led to a growing influx of lower-quality used textiles. Textile recycling is in decline, according to operators Terre, Les Petits Riens, and Oxfam, supported by the Federation of Social and Circular Enterprises Resources.
They warn, “Without political measures, streets will be littered with textiles, and hundreds of jobs will be lost.”
In Brussels, Les Petits Riens face threats. “Currently, 20% of textile waste is collected in Brussels without regional financial support,” says Thierry Smets, Managing Director of the organisation. “We are sounding the alarm. We strive to maintain a virtuous model. We are talking about 500 jobs in Brussels that are now vulnerable and at risk! We need legitimate financial aid as we fulfil a public service mission.” Les Petits Riens hope to secure this temporary funding of €206 per tonne in the future Brussels government’s programme.
In Wallonia, there has been a 10% increase in processed surplus since January. Operators have been alerting the region for months about the urgent need for structural measures to address dysfunctions in the textile reuse market. The issue is scheduled for discussion by the Walloon government on Thursday. Several measures are being considered by Minister Coppieters, yet, as Franck Kerckhof, spokesperson for the Federation Resources, states, “While these measures are relevant and even essential for the sector, only financial support proportional to the tonnage sorted during selective collection will enable us to survive.”
The office of Minister Coppieters could not be reached for comment.
