'Like a big family': A day in a Brussels bakery during Ramadan

'Like a big family': A day in a Brussels bakery during Ramadan
Credit: The Brussels Times

Muslims around the world are two weeks into Ramadan, their most important religious celebration of the year. For one month, a fast during daylight hours is preceded by suhoor, a simple meal before dawn, and iftar, a feast after sundown.

The Brussels Times spoke to a popular bakery in the Midi-Lemonnier quarter to understand local business' role in supporting the community throughout Ramadan.

Boulevard Maurice Lemonnier, one of the grand avenues in the city centre, is home to a smattering of Arab businesses and represents a pinnacle of the Muslim community of Brussels. Dikra, a boulangerie-patisserie, sits next to the street's Mosque and opposite the embattled Palais du Midi. It sells mouthwatering sweets, desserts and savoury snacks all year round with even more on offer during Ramadan.

What makes Dikra stand out? "Our relationship with clients," said Zizou, an employee at the bakery. "We treat customers like kings and roll out the red carpet for them. We give all we can."

Zizou doesn't mean this on a superficial level. He explains that as a staff member, he often acts as a listening ear to regular customers.

In addition, he makes a concerted effort to help out other businesses operating along the boulevard, and he expresses pride at the community spirit the neighbourhood has cultivated. "We all help each other out. We are like a big family."

Credit: The Brussels Times

The bakery's workload becomes much heavier during Ramadan. Iftar is typically an elaborate meal, and many Muslims who don't have time to prepare accordingly will swing by Dikra to pick up all manner of sweet and savoury goods. The doors stay open longer than usual, with people lining up before 06:00 and numbers remaining consistent until 22:00.

During Ramadan, the bakery adds to its existing offer. Alongside a year-round selection of cheesecake, tiramisu, baklava, millefeuille and éclairs, it serves Moroccan cakes made from semolina or almonds, pain à la planche (a quick sandwich), feuilletés (puff pastries) filled with sausage or mince meat and decadent almond croissants.

A fresh batch of Briwat – a special Moroccan pastry that can be sweet or savoury – emerges from the oven as we speak to Zizou, who subsequently offers us a piece. Dikra's own version of it is lavishly syrupy and emerges fresh from the oven all day every day. Savoury fillings include fish, chicken and mince meat.

Chebakia (above) and Feuilletés (below). Credit: The Brussels Times

What really takes the cake is chebakia, the sweets of Ramadan. These sweet treats are considered extremely important during Ramadan, as a densely sugary item rewards the person fasting with a burst of energy. Dikra have both Moroccan and Tunisian versions of chebakia available.

Muslims traditionally begin iftar with dates and water, which is how the prophet Mohammed first broke his fast during the original Ramadan, when the Qur'an (the holy book of Islam) came into being. Dates can be purchased at Dikra (and the majority of Arab businesses across Brussels) during the month-long celebration.

Respect and cooperation

During Ramadan, Zizou says the personal relationship with the customer eases off a little, simply because bakers are far too busy for idle conversation. In addition, working long hours while fasting is hard work, especially when surrounded by so much food.

However, the concept of respectful communication is no less important to the young Moroccan man during Ramadan. In fact, it is a fundamental aspect of his belief.

Zizou on Boulevard Maurice Lemonnier. Credit: The Brussels Times

"Islam is about respect," he explains. "If you don't have respect, you have forgotten the five pillars of Islam." For Zizou, Ramadan is about giving the best of yourself and behaving respectfully towards others.

Time and time again, he comes back to the spirit of cooperation that extends not just to Brussels' Muslim community but Belgian and other nationalities living in the city, not to mention the many tourists who find themselves on Boulevard Lemonnier, eager to dip into another vibrant culture.

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