A staple of Belgian cuisine, the winning combination of seafood and french fries is a must-try for tourists visiting Brussels. But few are aware of the origins of the dish.
In fact, mussels don't come from Brussels at all but from the southern Dutch region of Zeeland, although it is uncertain when they first reached Belgian shores.
The history of the famed cuisine is muddied by the fact that Belgium only gained independence in the 19th century, with different regions under the rule of various European kingdoms over the centuries.
Nonetheless, the first cultural appearance of the mussel came in 1559, when famed Flemish painter Pieter Bruegel the Elder made it a prominent feature of his painting "The Fight Between Carnival and Lent."
But it wasn't until after Belgium gained its independence in 1830 that the mollusc was sold alongside fries, launching the newly-founded country’s cuisine. Details vary but most reports agree that “moules-frites” were first sold at the Liège Fair in either 1875 or 1885.
Pieter Brueghel the Elder – 'The Fight Between Carnival and Lent'. Credit: Wikimedia Commons
Another unexpected detail is that the vendors that came up with the dish were German. One named Frédéric Krieger came over from the region of Bayern to set up his own "friterie" at the Liège Fair in the 1830s. But it wasn't until Krieger had died that his widowed wife thought to mix mussels with fries.
And so the gastronomic phenomenon was born, with the dish gaining further popularity when the famous “La Friture Léon” restaurant opened in Brussels in 1893.
The status of moules-frites as a Belgian dish was cemented in the 20th century – especially at the Expo 58 when Brussels hosted the World’s Fair. The dish is said to have been sold by numerous stalls during the universal exposition, solidifying its reputation as Belgium’s go-to meal in the eyes of the world.
Along with the fanfare of the exhibits, the Expo 58 confirmed moules-frites as a typically Belgian dish. Credit: Belga
For those curious about tasting this hallmark of Belgian cuisine, the capital is still filled with establishments that serve the dish. These include Le Zinneke in Schaerbeek, Au Stekerlapatte in the Marolles neighbourhood, La Belle Maraîchère on Sainte-Catherine or the Grand-Place’s La Roue d’Or.
