Belgium – and particularly Brussels – often divides opinion among international residents. While some praise it for its friendly locals, handy location and lack of pretentiousness, the country has also gained a reputation for bad weather, average food and overly complex politics. But what do Brussels' international residents really think of the city and country they now call home?
"I've never been destined to live in Brussels, like many people," Philippe Peyredieu du Charlat, 55, tells The Brussels Times.
Philippe is from Paris but has lived in the Belgian capital since 2018, when he came to work at the European Parliament. He says that if the institutions weren't here, he wouldn't stay in Belgium.
Compared to Paris, he believes Brussels isn't "upscale" and has too much of a "student feel".
"What is missing is this kind of international flair that is a bit upscale. I don't think an American would invest in an apartment in Brussels, as they do in London or in Paris or in Zurich," he says.
Kirstyn Byrne, 34, from Dublin, however, "adores" Brussels. "I moved here for one year to study initially and then I was like, I'm not leaving," she tells The Brussels Times. "I absolutely love it because it's so international as well."
As well as the melting pot of cultures, she praises Brussels for its affordability compared to the Irish capital – although in the same breath she admits to having just paid €25 for pastries at a café with her friend and fellow Dubliner Louise Ní Chuilinn, 33, who has also lived in Belgium for almost a decade.
Louise Ní Chuilinn and Kirstyn Byrne, from Dublin, Ireland. Credit: Vicente Torre Hovelson / The Brussels Times
Louise's pet peeve is non-Belgians complaining about Brussels and saying they didn't plan on moving to the city. "That means the city charmed you into staying. You're choosing to be here. People could get over themselves a little bit," she says.
For Kirstyn, Brussels is "less pretentious" than other European capitals such as Paris, Berlin and Barcelona – and this is part of its charm.
"I think your opinion of Brussels says a lot about you as a person," adds Louise, who used to work in the EU bubble and is now an illustrator. "I trust you if you like Brussels."
Her favourite things about the Belgian capital are the cheap nights out, "the accessibility of slightly shit gigs", and the way people talk to each other. "People are quite reserved compared to home. But once you're in, you're really in," she says.
"It's a funnier city than other places. Maybe it's Belgian surrealism."
Culture and careers
The city's packed cultural calendar is also a draw for Rocío Benito, 33, from Madrid, and Angela Cano Palomares, 30, from Valencia, who have both lived in Brussels for six years.
The Spaniards work in the EU bubble but not in the institutions and say the job opportunities are noticeably better in Belgium than back home.
"It's a good place to build a home and a family. […] If I were to live in Spain, I wouldn't have the same quality of life," Angela says.
Angela Cano Palomares and Rocío Benito, from Spain. Credit: Vicente Torre Hovelson / The Brussels Times
They concede, however, that Spain wins on social life, beaches, food and weather – and the fact that shops stay open later.
Parisian Philippe agrees that Belgian food leaves a lot to be desired.
When quizzed on whether fries are French or Belgian, Philippe doesn't hesitate: "It's a French invention," he says, adding that the snack has been "transformed" by the Belgians – and not in a good way.
"They are turning into something that is very crunchy and very greasy. I prefer the French ones, because if you [go overboard on] the Belgian ones, you'll end up in hospital."
Philippe Peyredieu du Charlat, from Paris, France. Credit: Vicente Torre Hovelson / The Brussels Times
What Belgium is supposedly lacking in gastronomy, however, it makes up for in diversity, he says. He likes how international Brussels is and says the city is more welcoming than Paris.
Maia De Quay, 27, from the Netherlands, also enjoys living in Brussels but describes it as "a bit chaotic" and "much more bureaucratic" than her home country.
"Sometimes I get really annoyed with the way that things are arranged in Belgium," she says, adding that having to register a new address when moving to a commune and a police officer calling round "feels like the 1960s".
Maia has lived in Brussels for just over a year and is currently working as a Blue Book trainee at the European Commission. She's not sure whether she'll stick around after her traineeship ends. "I would like to stay, but I also don't mind going back," she says.
Sitting by her side is her boyfriend, Mathijs De Jong, 27, who visits her regularly and is in town for a long weekend. Brussels reminds him of Paris, but he finds the capital of Europe surprisingly dirty and not very green.
Maia De Quay and Mathijs De Jong, from The Hague in the Netherlands. Credit: Vicente Torre Hovelson / The Brussels Times
The pair also point out that there was nowhere to swim outside in Brussels during the heatwave – something they struggle with as they're used to going to the beach in their hometown of The Hague.
"There was no place to cool down. There are some beautiful parks, but that was about it," says Mathijs. "It's not my city, but it has its charm."
To cool off, they ended up heading to Flanders, where the swimming spots are plentiful and the Dutch sounds "drunk", according to Maia.
"It's very sweet and soft. And they use more retro, old-timey words that we used to have in the Netherlands, but not anymore," she says.
An island in Belgium
The Dutch couple aren't the only ones to point out the differences across Belgium's three regions.
Louise and Kirstyn feel Brussels is "an island in Belgium", as the capital seems very separate from the rest of the country.
"I think there's Belgium and then there's Brussels," says Louise. "Talking to non-Brussels Belgian people, I think they think we live in Mad Max country."
They both have Flemish partners but generally find people from the northern region more "serious". Kirstyn also hasn't always felt welcome as a non-Belgian in Flanders.
"[I haven't felt] ostracised, per se, but people ignore me because I don't speak Flemish. I do speak French and English, but they don't really engage with either of those languages in certain places," she says, adding that Walloons are more "chill and open-minded".
Italian Francesco Cappelletti, 33, also enjoys discovering the "hidden gems" outside of Brussels. He works at the Parliament but says there is much more to Belgium than the EU bubble.
Some of his favourite spots include Ghent, Bruges and Mechelen, and exploring villages and châteaux in the Ardennes. "It's very green because it's always raining – which is a bit of a downside being from Italy," he hastens to add, in true Mediterranean style.
Francesco Cappelletti, from Italy. Credit: Vicente Torre Hovelson / The Brussels Times
Francesco prefers Flanders and Wallonia to Brussels. Although there's always something going on in the capital, "everyone is sadly a bit alone, because they're mostly expats working around here" and they "stick to each other".
He feels some parts of the city are like the Bronx in New York, because of crimes committed by gangs of "kids who are bored".
Charming chaos
Louise, however, believes that crime and litter – although often a hot topic – are no more of a problem in Brussels than anywhere else.
"I think people forget it's the capital city. If there's going to be crime anywhere, it's not going to be someone's farm in Erps-Kwerps," she says.
Kirstyn says people living in Brussels should "accept that sometimes the streets are a bit dirty if it's bin day. I find it even a little bit charming; it's a chaotic city".
For the Dubliners, the lack of accessibility and broken pavements are the bigger issue at hand. "I think it pushes people out of enjoying the city. I think they end up married to their car out in the suburbs," says Louise.
Despite having lived in Brussels for nearly a decade and her love for the city, the Irish national concludes that she wouldn't apply for citizenship as she doesn't think she will ever "feel Belgian enough".
She also says there's a different attitude to national identity here compared to Ireland. "They're a bit more blasé about it in Belgium, because it's such a separated-out country. Unless the World Cup is on, I don't think there is a Belgian national identity."
